1. Powder Coat Gun Parts

If you don’t yet have a toaster oven you can’t use with food, here’s yet another reason:. Powder coating is much harder and more durable than paint – a property imbued to it by the fact that it’s baked on to a part. Thomas had a go at powder coating some skateboard trucks, and with the right tools, found the process downright easy. Thomas only needed a few things to powder coat his parts, the first and most important being a powder coat gun. A few years ago, Craftsman produced a powder coat gun that’s still available on Amazon and eBay for about $50. Powders are plentiful and cheap in small quantities. The only other tools needed were an N95 or better respirator, some high temperature tape for masking off the part and a toaster oven.

Information about DIY powder coating guns. This Craftsman powder coating gun performs. I personally wouldn't purchase or follow their powder coating manual.

1. New craftsman powder coat system model 1. Chicago Repair and Replacement Parts Network > By County. Not sure how that one. DIY Powder Coating and Media Blasting.
2. Sears Craftsman Powder Coating System,complete details about Sears Craftsman Powder Coating System provided by A1 Marine Imports. Electrostatic Manual Spray Gun.

If you want to coat big parts, there are. After the part was sandblasted down to bare metal, Thomas masked off all the holes and threads of the part with polyimide tape. Any tape that’s capable of withstanding high temperatures will do, and most of us have a roll of Kapton sitting next to a 3D printer, anyway. The part is coated with powder via an electrostatic charge, and this means attaching a ground lead from the gun to the part. After that, it’s just filling the gun with powder, putting it in the oven set at 450°F, and letting the powder liquefy.

In the video below, you can see Thomas sandblasting, powdering, and baking a set of aluminum skateboard trucks using his method. Compared to other methods of finishing metal parts – anodizing or plating, for instance, powder coating is remarkably easy and something anyone can do in a garage. Thanks Tyler for sending this one in. Posted in Tagged, Post navigation. Time and money I get. Not sure how you could have a hobby without time to spend on it.

Keygen 2017 safe scrap mechanic. I’d even get it if you just aren’t interested. It’s a vast hobby with room for a lot of different kinds of interests. Nobody can do it all. How big do you think 3d printers are?

I don’t think the author was talking about one of those super expensive refrigerator sized ones. Even someone who lives in one of those converted shipping crate homes ought to be able to fit in a small desktop printer if they wanted one. The space comment makes me think you are inventing excuses. I’m happy enough with the HF gun (not having used any name brand ones), but I wasn’t impressed by the quality of the HF powder’s finish, either. It doesn’t seem to melt uniformly like the better powders do. Caswell’s and Eastwood are two online vendors I’ve used. Eastwood has a nice low-temperature clear coat that really makes the base coat pop.

Some of the early problems I had with the finish were due to trapped oils or solvents outgassing from the part during curing in the oven. I pre-bake parts now, let them cool, then coat and bake. I would never use their powder. Get it from a real source.

I got their gun though, and from what I hear it’s great but I haven’t been able to use mine because I still don’t have an air compressor I’ve been using my first powder coating gun, one of those Craftsman self-contained units as seen in the article, which I got for $24 new on clearance.:D I’ve gotten powder from Eastwood and from Columbia Coatings I highly recommend Columbia Coatings, they have some amazing colors, specialty materials, textured finishes, and even matched industrial equipment colors. (For brands like Caterpillar, Cub, International, John Deere, Kawasaki, Kubota, etc.). You can anodize in a garage just fine. The biggest problem is getting all of the parts together and the knowledge of how to do it. Scaling it up is a different story and there are a lot more “moving parts” compared to powder coating. Anodizing also doesn’t hide any flaws, unlike powder coating, which adds geometry to the part. The other difficulty is that anodizing cast aluminum often times does not work very well due to the chemistry.

These do not appear to be precision milled skateboard trucks made from known wrought alloys. Powder coating does not have this issue. Depends on what you are trying to accomplish. Both have their place but both can be done in a garage. I have one of those Craftsman guns.:D It’s been a while since I used it Now that I have a 3D printer, maybe I should do what I said I’d do “If I ever got a 3D printer”; make an adapter for it to take interchangeable screw-on bottles instead of that half-assed cup that traps so much wasted powder in it that it has to be washed out between uses. Check out Columbia Coatings. They have some amazing powders.

I have a big Black & Decker infrawave oven that I modded for reflow soldering, and then had to unmodify because TechFX went poof and took the software for their controller board with them I added a 0.5×0.5″ aluminium angle as a shelf rail to either side of the oven, up near the top, so I could top-mount the rack, and hang the parts. So, I hang the parts from the rack, hang it in a box that acts as ‘spray booth’, ground the rack, powder coat the parts, then transfer the rack to the oven.

Btw, if you’re doing large pieces of aluminium, it’s been my experience that you should take them up to temp for a minute, take them out of the oven, and -then- powder coat them. Otherwise they like to off-gas through the powder as it’s curing and blister it. (There’s chemicals you can dip them in to take care of this, but I couldn’t afford them, and I found if I just let the parts off-gas, coated them, and then baked them, it turned out fine.) I also recommend sandblasting; it evens out the finish, preps the surface, and eradicates all sorts of blemishes.

(Especially if you’re working with like 1/16″ sheet for a control panel or something and it’s got scratches in it from working on it.) I don’t have a blasting cabinet or anything, but my sister’s BF’s family does, and his father was nice enough to blast some parts for me. There is no mention of what kind of “powder”, it can be many different materials, I had a pump action shotgun “powder coated” with teflon. The stuff we mostly see, milk bottle holders (they still have them?), greeting card racks and other bent wire products are polyethylene which is really easy to do.

I learnt how to do it in tech studies back in the 70’s and have been coating pretty much the same way ever since, with a few mods based on what was at hand. You can use your kitchen oven to initially heat the piece, just don’t use it to “flow” after you have applied the powder, in high school we used an oxygen/acetylene flame, with a wide, damn near shower rose sized head, since then I’ve used straight propane with a (I think) paint stripping head.

Basically hang the piece with a thin bit of wire in a way you can get a flame to the whole piece without touching it. If you’re heating up with a flame, work fast and evenly, it takes a bit to get the hang of how long and how hot. To check if you are ready to apply powder, try a pinch on the piece, it shouldn’t smoke too much, but “stick” evenly and when you “knock” the piece excess will fall off. For an improvised, fluidising bed/chamber I’ve used an old metal rubbish bin and lid.

Cut a hole near the bottom for a vacuum cleaner hose/weed blower/other air movement device, attach your hose, put a few inches of powder in your chamber. When you think your piece is hot enough, transfer it to your chamber, have it hanging above the powder, turn on the blower of choice. That last step needs to be done quickly, but don’t rush it. After you’ve been listening to powder swirl around for a bit, kill the blower, wait, lift the lid, give your piece a “knock” to remove the excess powder. Then hang your work and play your gas flame over it, you’ll clearly see the powder “skin”. Again, work quickly and evenly, don’t rush and don’t keep the flame still. After it’s cooled enough to NOT leave finger prints (this is the bit I always stuff up with any surface coating), remove your hanger wire, if you need to cut a bit of plastic away that is fine.

Then carefully heat up the hanger area with your flame, sprinkle a bit of powder over the area, knock off the excess, play the flame over the are until it skins. It will help if you hang your piece from a place where you can’t see it in the finished item. Now before the usual suspects pipe up with their two cents, this is not an ideal fluidising bed, but if you want to make a “proper one” you will need way more powder, on the order of ten times!

I never did any powdercoating, but auto paint is quite sensitive to oils and rust on the surface. No primer has ever prevented leftover rust from poking through. There are nice products available at your auto paint supplier: for rust there is a solution of phosphoric acid which changes rust to “black rust” (whatever that really is) and stops it from coming back through your finish. To get oils, grease and silicone off, there are “prep solvents” that work really well.

Both products are quite cheap and easy to use. On pressure, I bet that the Craftsman gun’s blower generates only a fraction of a psi.

Furthermore, I’m certain that a breath powered powder coater would work just fine. You would need a check valve to insure never inhaling the powder, a small orifice to even out the flow rate, and a dryer cartridge to remove the moisture in your breath. As with paintwork, it’s all about surface prep. For ferrous metals, I’d advise a phosphate acid rinse (like Jasco) which is what body shops use as the last step before paint.

It’s cheap and available anywhere auto paint supplies are sold. And now for something completely different! I was turning out “powder coated” parts decades before powder coating was invented! Just brush on Sears 2 part epoxy boat paint (available in black!) When dry of solvent (about an hour), it looks like absolute crap, and takes a full week to set hard. Pop parts into your kitchen oven as it does not smell or drip, and bake at 375 degrees for 20-30 minutes. Parts come out fully hard set and with a perfect reflow gloss as fine as any powder finished part I have ever seen! The set epoxy is more durable than any powder coat I’ve seen.

And the only equipment needed is a cheap disposable brush and your kitchen oven. It is truly quick and easy!

About product and suppliers: Alibaba.com offers 15 craftsman powder coating gun products. There are 14 craftsman powder coating gun suppliers, mainly located in Asia.

Powder Coat Gun Parts

The top supplying country is China (Mainland), which supply 100% of craftsman powder coating gun respectively. Craftsman powder coating gun products are most popular in Western Europe, Eastern Europe, and Southeast Asia. You can ensure product safety by selecting from certified suppliers, including 5 with Other, 4 with ISO9001, and 3 with ISO14001 certification.